How To Build a Better Wardrobe, Chapter 2: Stocking the Basics

The most expensive items in your wardrobe should be the things that you wear the most. Coats, shoes, bags, and whatever else you wear/use every day should be the best quality that you can afford. Keep them clean (get them professionally cleaned occasionally) and in good condition.

A few years ago I splurged on a pair of Chanel sunglasses which were (well, let’s just say they cost a lot). However, I wear them almost every day, I love them, and for me this was money well spent.

When I am considering buying a new bag, I ask myself, “Will I have this forever?” If the answer is no then I usually walk away because bags are a) incredibly expensive and b) ideally of high enough quality that they can last forever, so I don’t want to spend a lot of money on something that won’t be around for long. I’d rather have one or two really nice bags than a whole bunch of not-so-nice bags.

I think most of us have a uniform, which may be jeans or suits, for example. Mine is skirts since this is typically what I wear to work. We all deviate from this of course, but I think it’s helpful to identify what it is that is easiest for you to pull on in the morning and feel good about, and pay attention to those pieces as they will be what you wear the most. In particular, think about your uniform when buying things. For example, if you wear jeans most of the time make sure that your most expensive shoes are something you can wear with jeans.

For basics like button-up shirts, pencil skirts, and solid-colored sweaters, buying online (for example, at bananarepublic.com and jcrew.com) can give you better selection of colors, styles, and sizes than buying from the brick-and-mortar store. Only buy from a store that you have easy access to so that you can return things easily. I prefer not to buy pants or jeans on-line as I usually have to try a zillion of these on just to find one pair that works.

How To Build a Better Wardrobe, Chapter 1: Research

Basic research into building a better wardrobe begins by reading (and when I say reading, I mean of course looking at the pictures) magazines and catalogs and clipping things that you like to get a sense of what your style is, and for inspiration. You can paste these clippings into a scrapbook, or what I like to do is put them into clear sleeves that snap into a three-ring binder for easy editing. Subscribing to magazines is usually way cheaper than buying magazines on the newsstand. I like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, but I also use catalogs such as J. Crew, and celebrity magazines are good, too.

Your scrapbook allows you to see which colors and combinations work best. Sometimes what looks great on a person looks really boring on a hanger. For example, I have in my scrapbook an outfit (from a J. Crew catalog way-back-when) with a black t-shirt, white Capri pants, and black ballet flats. While a black t-shirt with jeans risks being too boring, with the white Capri pants it makes a great look.

Basic research may also include shopping trips where you don’t buy anything. Although it might drive your guy crazy, there is nothing wrong with going out for a day of shopping and not buying anything. Shopping is not just about buying things- it’s about knowing stores' inventories, when sales are, prices at different stores, and what size you typically wear in each store, so that when you need to find something you will know where to look. Research may be done at any time- shopping trips with friends, lunch breaks from work, etc.

The people around you are also a wealth of information. Listen carefully to well-dressed friends for tips on where to shop and what to look for. Especially valuable in this regard is a friend who always looks great and loves to talk shop. Also, when out in public, pay attention to what other people wear. You can get some great ideas just from people-watching.

My Free Diet

Over the last year or so, the numbers on the scale have started creeping upwards, and recently I decided it had gone too far.

I considered joining a popular weight loss group, but I am too cheap. So I'm trying another method: writing down everything I eat.

This method is mentioned in the book, "French Women Don't Get Fat," by Mireille Guiliano (which has many other great tips and tricks), however in this book she only advocates doing this for three weeks, to learn what your "offenders" are (those foods you eat a lot of that aren't helping matters). Studies show that a relatively easy way to lose weight and keep it off is to write down everything you eat, indefinitely.

The thing is, keeping it up is painful. It's a real drag. But having to buy all new clothes because I don't fit into the old ones is an even bigger drag, and I'm willing to fill up volumes with boring lists of breakfasts, lunch, and dinners to avoid this.

Right away it's easy to spot the more obvious offenders. Trips to the candy aisle at Rite-Aid have been axed. Then away went white bread (including pizza), pasta, pastries, cookies, beer, and other obvious carbs. Last night I realized that I cannot keep fun cheeses in the house- I may eat these on the occasional restaurant trip, but I cannot be trusted with a big block of Stilton cheese.

So what is left? I typically eat instant oatmeal for breakfast, a salad with grilled chicken for lunch, and dinner is random- eggs and toast, 1/2 a tuna sandwich, minestrone soup, or something of the sort. (I'm not a big dinner person). Snacks are either protein in the form of nuts or cheese (with strict portion control) or fruits and vegetables.

There is one other thing that is left, and that is Fran's 1.1 oz 72% Bittersweet Chocolate Bars. These are not cheap, but they are only 125 calories each, and I can get through a day of my diet food as long as it includes one of these.

How to Maintain Shoes

My boss once was talking about the frugality of the generation before ours, saying that, "you know, they got their shoes repaired..."

I get my shoes repaired all the time. (I didn't say this then). In fact, I am in the shoe repair place at least once every couple months. Here's my rundown on how to keep shoes maintained:

1. Only buy good quality shoes that you love and that fit perfectly (and only buy smooth leather- suede does not last). When they are still new, before you have worn them, spray them with a leather protector (spot test them first).

2. Keep those good quality shoes that you love in good condition by periodically taking them to a shoe repair place to have them cleaned, conditioned, and polished. (You can also do this yourself. There are lots of products out there, but I love the pop-up containers of wipes with leather cleaner on them. They make it so easy to clean dirty shoes, bags, and other things made of leather. The conditioning and polishing is a dirty job and I think it's worth the $5 to have someone else do it.) I like to find a small place where I actually speak to the person who is doing the repairs.

3. The heel of a shoe (especially on high-heels) will wear down and need to be replaced from time to time.

4. If your shoes are pointy, the shoe-repair guy can put taps on them to extend their life.

5. If you get a little nick or tear in the leather, this can usually be fixed.

6. Shoe repair guys can do amazing things sometimes. If your shoes have issues, take them in to the repair place and explain what the problem is, and ask if they know of any solutions. From slippery shoes to wrong-size shoes, there is often a solution to the problem.

7. I like to store my shoes in the box they came in. It protects the shoes from dirt, dust, and deformation, with the added benefit that you can stack them all in a neat little pile on a shelf or so.

8. A word on athletic shoes: shoes that are not leather, such as most running shoes, can be machine washed. I have washed many, many pairs of running shoes and haven't had a disaster yet (although I can't make any guarantees...). Just throw them in the washing machine with some detergent on a warm water cycle and when they are done, put them in a warm place, such as next to a heater, to dry. DO NOT PUT THEM IN THE DRYER.

Oh, and one last thing, I always ask what the cost of any service is before I request it to avoid any bad surprises.

Here is a link to an article by Martha Stewart titled, Tips and tricks for keeping your shoes shipshape.

Green Clean

Last weekend, after a family reunion down in Auburn, the 421 household made a stop at Ikea, and I got the most wonderful book: "clean" by michael de jong (subtitled, "the humble art of zen-cleansing"). For a long time I have been wanting to rid myself of the chemicals that are my cleaning products, but to replace with what? This little book is nice because it's short (and only $7), so I don't feel like I am studying for my Ph.D. in cleaning the house.

Here's a few highlights:
First, you (mostly) only need five things: baking soda, borax, lemon, salt, and white vinegar. Cheap, so I'm on board. (Except, where does one buy borax? Not at Rite-Aid. I'm still looking. Update: I found it at Whole Foods.)

A couple of the greatest-hits recipes:

• Equal parts borax, baking soda, and Ivory soap flakes for laundry detergent

• Equal parts borax and baking soda for electric dishwashing detergent

• Add to fresh flowers: two Tbsp. white vinegar, one tsp. sugar for each one quart water

• 1/4 cup borax and 1/4 cup baking soda for all-purpose kitchen and bath cleaner; add salt as needed as an abrasive

I'm on board with the eco-cleaning, as soon as I find borax (it seems like a lot of the recipes include borax). These recipes provide yet another use for the glass jars that I love so much, and because they do not involve any chemicals, I can use rags for cleaning different things and then throw them all into the washing machine without worrying about different chemicals reacting.

All these cheap and easy cleaning solutions lead me to wonder: why did I ever start buying those toxic cleaners to begin with?